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A side trip to Lille
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AND IN LILLE, a pleasant change from Paris:

HÔTEL BRUEGHEL (note unusual spelling), near railroad station, 3-5 parvis Saint Maurice, 59000 Lille, 03 20 06 06 69; fax 03 20 63 25 27, hotel.brueghel@wanaddo.fr; www.hotel-brueghel.com. Single, €75+.

Restaurant LE MEUNIER, also near railroad station, 15, rue de Tournai, 59000 Lille; 03 28 04 04 90, fax 03 28 04 04 9. Specialties of northern France; excellent. 2 courses €11,70+ and €14,50+; 3 or more 4 courses, €20, €23 and €28.50 (September 2004 prices).